New Look 6945 Button Up Top Muslin (pattern review)

New Look 69 45 Sewing Pattern. Lined button up blouse with sleeves or sleeveless.
New Look 69 45 Sewing Pattern. Lined button up blouse with sleeves or sleeveless.
New Look 6945 is a lined button up blouse sewing pattern that comes in sleeveless, short sleeved, and three-quarters sleeve options. I bought the pattern because it said “easy”, not because I loved it. The shirt is casual without a lot of separate pieces and topstitching, etc. It is short and hits just below the waist. There are a few pattern reviews online.

The pattern runs big with a large amount of ease and I had to make a lot of alterations to make this wearable (which never happened). There is a large amount of ease in this pattern. It was a huge pouffy sack with a gaping neckline without alterations.

Changes I made:

  • Went down many sizes on the front piece to try to make this awful pattern fit better
  • Removed 1 and a half inches from the upper bodice back. I guess this is a change I may make often in the future…
  • Brought the front shoulder up 1 and a half inches
  • Removed 2 inches from the hipline on the back pattern piece
  • Shortened the bust darts by 2 inches or so
  • A million other changes that didn’t pan out
new look 6945 top front view muslin
I guess the upper chest is too long?? I had to pin up wedges at the sides of the armholes/ armsyes

Overall, this sewing pattern did not fit me in the least. I went down to a size 8 in the front bodice and the shoulder straps were still superrrrr wide! I had to ad over an inch to the shoulders to make the top stay on my body. And since it was also inappropriately low cut I also had to add a ton to the upper chest or else risk being mistaken for a daytime hooker.

I made change after change to try to make this pattern fit me. In the end I had to concede defeat and give up. At least I tried. On to the next failed project!

new look 6945 top side view muslin
New Look 6945… Doesn’t fit, never will
I cut out over an inch from the upper back, and there are wrinkles in the small of the back and below it.
I cut out over an inch from the upper back, and there are wrinkles in the small of the back and below it.

Sewing the New Look 6648 Top (View A)

new look 6648 sewing pattern
New Look 6648 Sewing Pattern

When I was trying to choose my next sewing project, I knew that I wanted to try one of the fabulous sew alongs available on many sewing blogs. Sometimes (every time?) I want step by step guidance so I can complete a project without drowning in a sea of confusion. I also wanted to work on separates (instead of a dress). Lastly, I wanted to work with jersey again since I was happy with my last two projects using knit fabric (Vogue 8390 Version 1 and Version 2).

I came across a sew along on Fashion Sewing Blog that looked like it fit the bill: New Look 6648 Sew Along. This sew along includes lots of clear pictures that take you through the crucial steps of making this top.

The New Look 6648 Shirt Sewing Pattern is a loose-fitting top that still looks flattering. It has wide sleeves and a wide waistband that falls to your hips. It looks cute and casual. It is highly recommended on Pattern Review by many reviewers.  In short, it was a perfect candidate for my next sewing project!

In the end, this top came out… big. Really big.  The neck is huge on me. Its less of a scoopneck and more of an off the shoulder top. I don’t have narrow shoulders at all, so that’s not the problem.  The neck band fit perfectly so I didn’t mess up there.  I guess I just made the wrong size and I should have made it smaller.

new look 6648 Top Sewing Pattern
Not the best look on me...

Next time I make view A, I am going to consider a smaller size and also grading to a smaller size at the neckline if possible.

The other thing I am going to do is mark the fold line on the waistband pattern piece more clearly. I think that hand basting the line would work, or maybe using a tracing wheel and dressmakers’ tracing paper.  You need to clearly see the fold line to make your side gathers on the waistband the correct size.

I did like the pattern, and I think that I will make it again soon in a different version.  It was fairly quick to sew (allowing for my glacier-like pace of course). It is good practice for beginning to learn how to sew with knit fabrics.

new look 6648 Sewing Pattern
Very wide neckline. Where did this come from??

When quickly researching this top, I found that many people had made great versions of New Look 6648.  Peacock Chic made a fun, bright yellow version that I love but I could never ever wear that color!  I’ve never worn yellow AT ALL.  She looks great though! She says that the shoulder measurements seemed big too.

Girls in the Garden have made this shirt several times, with fabulous results every time.  I would love to find a border print fabric like they did to make this shirt.  Yarn Crawl did a cute version of this top, using view A like I did. I love it!