I have been working on fitting my dress for the Fast Track Fitting Class! I still have a ways to go but I am getting there. At least this current version doesn’t make me look like a stuffed sausage with a gigantic humpback.
There is a diagonal dragline from my underarm towards the center waist, and the bust apex sits much too high, I think I may need to make a larger cup size??? Yet I don’t have a full bust??? I did remove 2 inches from the center seam front bodice, I guess that was too much. Anyway, you can clearly see that the horizontal balance line on the front bodice bust line pulls up. The thighs (and maybe the hips?) are over fitted, which is somewhat to be expected as I removed A LOT of fabric in the back to make my embarrassing flat seat adjustment and did not add any in the front for ease because I was pretty confused by this point. Hmm I still need to brush up on making pattern fitting adjustments on Craftsy.
My most successful change was to remove the giant humpback of extra fabric between my shoulder blades in my upper back by cutting out a strip of fabric in the upper back bodice. In other words, I made the back bodice shorter without touching the side seams. I still need to remove a little more (I think) and possibly lower the arm holes since I brought them up so much, making the arm holes quite a bit smaller.
Okay so a million more changes need to be made… Despite his muslin’s shortcomings, this is a major improvement on the original pattern. I would like to remind you that the unaltered, right out of the envelope patterns starts out as the worst fitting garment in the history of humankind, then only gets worse without a bunch of pattern adjustments. The changes would be easier to make if I had a fitting partner to help me with my measurements. Looking at photographs of the muslin helps so much because apparently I tend to pull at the muslin in the mirror to adjust it and then exclaim “Its perfect!! Done! I will just maintain this impossible position and not move all day.”
I am excited about my newest Craftsy class: I am taking Fast Track Fitting with Joi Mahon. It seems like the perfect class for me because Fast Track Fitting shows you how to measure yourself and how to measure pattern pieces so you can alter your pattern pieces to closely match your own body’s sewing measurements. This process should help you escape the endlessly making muslins cycle, so you can have wearable garments more quickly and easily.
So far I am starting with altering the skirt on the pattern included with the class (Vogue 1004 fitting shell). I am doing the skirt first because I had to order a second pattern in a different size for the sleeve and bodice. The pattern alterations I made were to make the waist bigger (ugh) and to raise the hip line. Using Joi Mahon’s tips directly from the Fast Track Fitting Class, I altered the front of the skirt and the back of the skirt separately. So, I proportionately increased the size of the front of the skirt more than the back. This should help the skirt fit the unfortunate “fullness” on the front of my abdomen (AKA fat), since I carry extra weight around my middle.
I am going to work on altering this skirt to fit, with the help of the craftsy class and also Pattern Review.
So what are Craftsy Classes all about? Here are the details, directly from Craftsy:
Craftsy is a worldwide craft community offering online classes. It also has a patterns marketplace where independent designers can sell their patterns; a supplies shop with great deals on yarn, fabric, and class kits; and a projects section where members share pictures of their latest craft successes. With over two million members and counting, Craftsy has something for just about everyone, in categories ranging from quilting, sewing, knitting, painting, photography, cooking, and more.Why should I take a class online?
Online education isn’t just for schools and universities anymore. Craftsy courses provide you the convenience of a world-class instructor in your home, whenever you want to learn.
Online education, no matter what subject, is a great alternative to in-person classes for a number of reasons. With many online learning opportunities being on-demand, you are able to learn at your own pace, anytime. Online learning is a fantastic alternative to in-store craft classes for people with busy schedules or who have difficulty leaving the house. It also allows you to watch a troubling section over-and-over again, so you can see exactly how a technique is carried out, or refer back to your class for relevant concepts before beginning any new projects.
So far I am happy with this class. The video format has easy question and answer interactivity with the instructor Joi Mahon. I wish the class had more examples of altering pattern measurements on a model using real numbers, but I guess that would have added too much time to the class videos.
I am like taking online sewing classes, especially since there are not a lot of sewing classes near me and I don’t know anyone who sews. Craftsy offers refunds if you are not happy with a class after you purchase it. Craftsy even has free classes for you to try out.
Since I am petite, I often find that many clothes don’t quite hang right. Of course I find that regular-length pants are much too long and always need to be hemmed. Thankfully I have started to become comfortable with the idea of hemming my own jeans.
On some tops and shirts, the shoulder straps are simply too long. This means that the cut on the front of a shirt is sometimes much too low. Its not just a matter of too much cleavage- its really a matter of avoiding an unflattering fit. I ran into this problem when trying on a dress for an upcoming wedding. The dress (Donna Ricco ‘flourishing floral’) fit well everywhere except my chest. Because the straps were too long, the top portion of the dress just looked weird.
I decided to alter the dress myself. But to be honest, the thought of cutting the shoulder straps is too much of a commitment for my novice sewing skills. I was afraid of ruining the dress just through my inexperience. I decided to alter the shoulder straps in a way that would at least be salvageable if I made a terrible mistake.
So instead of cutting and resewing the shoulder straps, I simply pinned the center of the straps right side together and baste stitched it in about half an inch, resulting in shoulder straps that were shortened by about an inch or so each.
There is an extra flap of strap fabric inside of the dress on my shoulders, but it lies securely flat when I am wearing the dress. I used baste stitches so I could check to make sure that the altered length of the straps would be okay. Once I tried the dress on to make sure that it fit better, I stitched the length permanently. Since the dress is a satin polyester, I used a thinner needle than for my regular cotton sewing projects.
I bet that any experienced sewer would be horrified at my shoddy workmanship. But the dress fits better and I feel good knowing that once I am a more experienced sewer I can fix it permanently, and actually alter it the right way.
Of course, eventually I will need a better way to alter shoulder straps. This complete guide to altering ready to wear clothes by Craftsy shows how to get professional quality results when you want to shorten a shoulder strap, even if the dress or top has a lining.